[yee_row column-size="md-column" boxed_layout="yee-container-fluid" padding_layout="" style_detail="" theme_options="flattern" border_color="" border="none" background_image_options="none" background_image="" background_color_options="none" background_color="" responsive_column_reset="no" ex_class="" id="" visiable="1"][yee_column width="1/1" ors="" column-size="md-column" xs-column="0" xs-hidden="" sm-column="0" sm-hidden="" md-column="0" md-hidden="" lg-column="0" lg-hidden="" hidden-print="visiable" background_image="" background_color="" ex_class="" visiable="1"][yee_separator title="" assign="center" fontsize="14" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][/yee_separator][yee_text_block css_animation="no" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"]{textblock_content}<p><strong>澳門飲食界，近日又有話題。<br />
澳門麗思卡爾頓酒店旗下的米芝蓮一星餐廳「麗軒」，剛委任何漢昇師傅，出任中餐行政總廚掌舵人。何漢昇這名字，港人未必熟悉，卻是泰國人心中粵菜之神，連前泰皇普密蓬及其家族，都被他的手藝迷倒。</strong></p>

<p><strong>撰文、攝影：譚偉健</strong></p>
{/textblock_content}[/yee_text_block][yee_separator title="" assign="center" fontsize="14" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][/yee_separator][/yee_column][/yee_row][yee_row column-size="md-column" boxed_layout="yee-container-fluid" padding_layout="" style_detail="" theme_options="flattern" border_color="" border="none" background_image_options="none" background_image="" background_color_options="none" background_color="" responsive_column_reset="no" ex_class="" id="" visiable="1"][yee_column width="1/1" ors="" column-size="md-column" xs-column="0" xs-hidden="" sm-column="0" sm-hidden="" md-column="0" md-hidden="" lg-column="0" lg-hidden="" hidden-print="visiable" background_image="" background_color="" ex_class="" visiable="1"][yee_text_block css_animation="no" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"]{textblock_content}<p><span style="color:#800080"><span style="font-size:14px"><strong>紅褲子出身</strong></span></span><br />
何漢昇師傅，在泰國很有名。掌廚十多年，曾任職曼谷文華東方酒店及曼谷半島酒店湄江中餐廳，這餐廳，被泰國《Tatler》雜誌評選為最佳餐廳，前泰國普密蓬及家族成員，也是常客、都是粉絲。</p>

<p>「泰皇鍾意食燕窩，鍾意食魚。我為佢炮製鮮蟹肉琵琶官燕及酥脆蒜香銀鱈魚，佢和家人都好鍾意。」身型高挑紮實的何漢昇說。<br />
他生於香港，出身於基層，家境貧寒，加上兄弟姊妹眾多，12歲便入行，賺錢幫補家計，窮家孩子早當家。最初在茶樓學做燒臘點心，後來轉做廚房，開始正式涉足粵菜世界，由低學起，是百分百紅褲子出身。八十年代，酒店中菜開始出現，何把握機會加入酒店中菜廳，從此告別平凡，走上精緻粵菜之路。</p>

<p>廿來歲便北上廣州花園酒店，未幾又往北京王府飯店工作，磨劍十年，積累經驗。之後輾轉往返香港與內地，由瀋陽煮到淺水灣，慢慢朝大師之路進發。</p>
{/textblock_content}[/yee_text_block][wgt_flexslider animation="slide" size="" interval="5000" autoplay="yes" controlNav="yes" minItems="2" maxItems="4" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][wgt_flexslider_item item_type="image" video="" image="https://mycookey.oss-cn-hongkong.aliyuncs.com/%E5%91%B3%E4%B9%8B%E5%B9%B4%E8%B3%9E/%E9%BA%97%E8%BB%92/%E4%BD%95%E6%BC%A2%E6%98%87%E5%B8%AB%E5%82%85.jpg" item_link="" item_target="_blank" item_title=""]{item_description}<pre>何漢昇師傅在泰國載譽歸來，把東南亞菜特色融粵菜中。</pre>{/item_description}[/wgt_flexslider_item][/wgt_flexslider][yee_text_block css_animation="no" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"]{textblock_content}<p><span style="color:#800080"><span style="font-size:14px"><strong>泰國響名堂</strong></span></span><br />
千禧年後，他轉戰泰國，在曼谷文華東方酒店掌勺，開始改寫人生。<br />
「曼谷文華東方酒店做了三年，我轉到半島酒店中菜廳，想不到一做便做了十年零八個月。」他說。</p>

<p>這十年零八個月，對他來說，特別有意思。因為泰國菜餚，注重香料，口味較濃，和粵菜講究原味，重清重鮮，大相逕庭。何師傅不囿傳統，思考如何把兩者結合、取長補短，把東南亞風味融入中式菜餚中，成為一路奇兵、建構獨特風格。「我們廣東人食魚愛清蒸，但泰國天氣熱，清蒸大多數人覺得淡，我便將魚塊裹上脆漿酥炸，然後與脆蒜一起回鑊快炒，用避風塘方式炮製，外脆內嫩，結果很受歡迎。」他說。</p>

<p>他認為，烹調要因地制宜，不可默守成規。烹調方式要隨不同地域作出適應與改變，汲取他人的長處，與時並進，才能變化出更合適的口味。只是有一樣東西，無論如何也不變，就是食材一定要用最好。</p>
{/textblock_content}[/yee_text_block][/yee_column][/yee_row][yee_row column-size="md-column" boxed_layout="yee-container-fluid" padding_layout="" style_detail="" theme_options="flattern" border_color="" border="none" background_image_options="none" background_image="" background_color_options="none" background_color="" responsive_column_reset="no" ex_class="" id="" visiable="1"][yee_column width="1/1" ors="" column-size="md-column" xs-column="0" xs-hidden="" sm-column="0" sm-hidden="" md-column="0" md-hidden="" lg-column="0" lg-hidden="" hidden-print="visiable" background_image="" background_color="" ex_class="" visiable="1"][wgt_flexslider animation="slide" size="" interval="5000" autoplay="yes" controlNav="yes" minItems="2" maxItems="4" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][wgt_flexslider_item item_type="image" video="" image="https://mycookey.oss-cn-hongkong.aliyuncs.com/%E5%91%B3%E4%B9%8B%E5%B9%B4%E8%B3%9E/%E9%BA%97%E8%BB%92/%E9%AE%AE%E8%9F%B9%E8%82%89%E7%90%B5%E7%90%B6%E5%AE%98%E7%87%95_r.jpg" item_link="" item_target="_blank" item_title=""]{item_description}<pre>鮮蟹肉琵琶官燕，用上等印尼燕窩及新鲜蟹肉做，與蛋白混和蒸熟再淋上湯，蟹肉與官燕一口吃，香鮮溢滿口腔，很好吃。</pre>{/item_description}[/wgt_flexslider_item][/wgt_flexslider][wgt_flexslider animation="slide" size="" interval="5000" autoplay="yes" controlNav="yes" minItems="2" maxItems="4" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][wgt_flexslider_item item_type="image" video="" image="https://mycookey.oss-cn-hongkong.aliyuncs.com/%E5%91%B3%E4%B9%8B%E5%B9%B4%E8%B3%9E/%E9%BA%97%E8%BB%92/%E9%85%A5%E8%84%86%E8%92%9C%E9%A6%99%E9%8A%80%E9%B1%88%E9%AD%9A_r.jpg" item_link="" item_target="_blank" item_title=""]{item_description}<pre>酥脆蒜香銀鱈魚，靈感源自港式避風塘炒蟹，主角卻換了澳葡飲食文化的重要食材鱈魚。選法國鱈魚，酥炸後與脆蒜一起回鑊快，外脆內嫩，香口非常。</pre>{/item_description}[/wgt_flexslider_item][/wgt_flexslider][yee_text_block css_animation="no" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"]{textblock_content}<p><span style="color:#800080"><span style="font-size:14px"><strong>風味大溶爐</strong></span></span><br />
「好似叉燒，我就用西班牙黑毛豬做，肉質更加嫩滑，更好食。又好似鱈魚，我試勻阿根廷、加拿大、法國，發現法國銀鱈魚嫩滑多汁，質素最好，於是我就用法國的。」何師傅說。</p>

<p>他建基傳統，卻勇於創新，菜式屢有驚喜。像泰皇最愛的蟹肉琵琶官燕，便用上等印尼燕窩和新鮮蟹肉做，且和一般做法截然不同。<br />
「傳統的蟹肉官燕，都是把所有材料一起煮，再以湯羹形式上碟。我將這兩種食材與蛋白混和，放在湯匙蒸熟，讓蟹肉與官燕以一口大小的花瓣形態呈現，再在上面淋上以金華火腿、鮮雞和瘦肉淆製三小時而成的上湯，看起來更賞心悅目，吃起來鮮香滑共冶一爐。」</p>

<p>今年，他載譽歸來，加盟澳門麗思卡爾頓酒店旗下的米芝蓮一星餐廳「麗軒」，仍然以東南亞風味融入中式菜餚中，當中還加入了葡國風味。像砵酒焗蝦球煲，蛻變自廣東薑葱焗蠔煲，他用越南大蝦取代生蠔，再以葡國名產甜砵酒來焗，既有澳葡色彩、也具廣東風味，大蝦更比生蠔多了一份爽口。中葡越三地完美結合，何師傅的心思和功力，在此見一斑。</p>
{/textblock_content}[/yee_text_block][wgt_flexslider animation="slide" size="" interval="5000" autoplay="yes" controlNav="yes" minItems="2" maxItems="4" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][wgt_flexslider_item item_type="image" video="" image="https://mycookey.oss-cn-hongkong.aliyuncs.com/%E5%91%B3%E4%B9%8B%E5%B9%B4%E8%B3%9E/%E9%BA%97%E8%BB%92/%E7%A0%B5%E9%85%92%E7%84%97%E8%9D%A6%E7%90%83%E7%85%B2_r.jpg" item_link="" item_target="_blank" item_title=""]{item_description}<pre>砵酒焗蝦球煲，以越南大蝦代替生蠔，以甜砵酒用陶鍋焗，醬汁酒香四溢，蝦球啖啖肉又爽口，惹味好吃。</pre>{/item_description}[/wgt_flexslider_item][/wgt_flexslider][wgt_flexslider animation="slide" size="" interval="5000" autoplay="yes" controlNav="yes" minItems="2" maxItems="4" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][wgt_flexslider_item item_type="image" video="" image="https://mycookey.oss-cn-hongkong.aliyuncs.com/%E5%91%B3%E4%B9%8B%E5%B9%B4%E8%B3%9E/%E9%BA%97%E8%BB%92/%E9%A6%99%E8%8C%85%E5%95%AB%E5%95%AB%E7%BF%A0%E8%9E%BA%E9%9B%9E%E7%85%B2_r.jpg" item_link="" item_target="_blank" item_title=""]{item_description}<pre>香茅啫啫翠螺雞煲，又是一道充滿東南亞風味的粵菜，啫啫雞煲加了香茅，泰國味頓時倍增。再下翡翠螺同啫，螺鮮吊起雞鮮，雙重鮮美。</pre>{/item_description}[/wgt_flexslider_item][/wgt_flexslider][/yee_column][/yee_row][yee_row column-size="md-column" boxed_layout="yee-container-fluid" padding_layout="" style_detail="" theme_options="flattern" border_color="" border="none" background_image_options="none" background_image="" background_color_options="none" background_color="" responsive_column_reset="no" ex_class="" id="" visiable="1"][yee_column width="1/1" ors="" column-size="md-column" xs-column="0" xs-hidden="" sm-column="0" sm-hidden="" md-column="0" md-hidden="" lg-column="0" lg-hidden="" hidden-print="visiable" background_image="" background_color="" ex_class="" visiable="1"][yee_text_block css_animation="no" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"]{textblock_content}<p><strong>食物：</strong>＊＊＊＊<br />
<strong>環境：</strong>＊＊＊1/2<br />
<strong>價錢：</strong>＊＊＊＊</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>麗軒</strong><br />
地址：澳門路氹城「澳門銀河」綜合渡假城澳門麗思卡爾頓酒店51樓<br />
電話：（853）8886 6712</p>
{/textblock_content}[/yee_text_block][/yee_column][/yee_row][yee_row column-size="md-column" boxed_layout="yee-container-fluid" padding_layout="" style_detail="" theme_options="flattern" border_color="" border="none" background_image_options="none" background_image="" background_color_options="none" background_color="" responsive_column_reset="no" ex_class="" id="" visiable="1"][yee_column width="1/1" ors="" column-size="md-column" xs-column="0" xs-hidden="" sm-column="0" sm-hidden="" md-column="0" md-hidden="" lg-column="0" lg-hidden="" hidden-print="visiable" background_image="" background_color="" ex_class="" visiable="1"][yee_separator title="" assign="left" fontsize="14" ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"][/yee_separator][wgt_tinymce_editor ex_class="" style_detail="" yee-widget-theme="default" border_color="" border="none" visiable="1"]{content}<p>【味之年賞】特色食府指南 以味道分高下<br />FB：<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/AwardsOfTASTE/" rel="alternate">fb.com/AwardsOfTASTE/</a></strong></span><br />IG：<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="https://www.instagram.com/awardsoftaste/" rel="alternate">instagram.com/awardsoftaste/</a></strong></span></p>
<p>更多香港美食介紹：<br /><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="dine-out" rel="alternate">myCOOKey出街食</a></span></strong></p>
<p>你或有興趣的文章：<br /><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong><a href="%E5%91%B3%E4%B9%8B%E5%B9%B4%E8%B3%9E/%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF/2657-%E3%80%90%E5%91%B3%E4%B9%8B%E5%B9%B4%E8%B3%9E-%E9%A6%99%E6%B8%AF%E3%80%91%E8%88%8C%E5%B0%96%E4%B8%8A%E7%9A%84%E6%87%B7%E8%88%8A%E7%B2%B5%E8%8F%9C-%E8%90%AC%E6%85%B6%E8%BB%92.html" rel="alternate">【味之年賞 香港】舌尖上的懷舊粵菜 萬慶軒</a></strong></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>{/content}[/wgt_tinymce_editor][/yee_column][/yee_row]